Talking Wines with Ian Blackburn
Written & compiled by Louis S. Luzzo Sr.
Master of Wine Student and innovative wine industry spokesperson, Ian Blackburn drinks wine for a living. Since it was established in 1995, Ian has worked on building Learn About Wine into the leading source for wine education and events in Southern California. The company was the first business of its kind: a wine education and event website dedicated to the education, service, and enjoyment of wine.
Ian’s passion for wine and entertaining makes him one of the top spokespersons in the United States; he was trained as an educational Ambassador for the Napa Valley Vintners and the Region of Champagne, France. Ian’s expertise and entertaining ways can be heard regularly on Los Angeles radio airwaves like KCRW, KLOS, KROQ, INDIE 103.1, 98.7 and Ian even appeared as an expert on ABC’s “The Bachelor.” Creating wine lifestyle events in order to get more people involved in the enjoyment and appreciation of wine is Ian’s forte. Commissioned by Wiley Publications to write "The Pleasure of Wine" in 2004, Ian is currently studying for his Masters of Wine and working on his second book at his home office in Downtown Los Angeles.
Recently Ian and I had the chance to sit down and talk about him, wine in general and his thoughts on the future of the wine industry. I hope you enjoy it.
Let's get some background on you and start with where you grew up. I got a job with Kenwood and they really enjoyed my wine education style. I helped build the brand on premise, which they'd never experienced before, to the restaurant channel. We had launched a restaurant only brand at that time called YULUPA and it went crazy. I did really well and helped make money for them. It was a small team of really passionate people at that point and we pretty much doubled our volume in a year with that wine. No, my education paralleled my job. When I started in 1995, when I went to work for the distributor and started to learn about wine. Kind of a glorified blog at the time. Just a place for me to post the 10 things to know about this and things to do. Then I started offering a couple of classes, once a quarter, then I went to once a month, then maybe two a month over time. My reputation built up in southern California that I was a good teacher and I had a good teaching style and the public began to respond. I brought on one person as staff, and she worked very, very little (he chuckles). I'd sell wine during the day and teach wine at night a couple of times a week. I could sell wine during the day, and that was the job, but I could teach and keep the passion alive. You hit my particular nail directly on the head. One of the favorite article I've written to date was our January feature on champagne, not only the wine but the region. If I had a choice of one hundred of the top wines or a champagne, I'd probably go for the champagne every single time. | Yes, I still reflect on those experiences and try to emmulate him in my walk. That says a lot and if I interpret that correctly, your admiration has nothing to do with wine. Smart people make smart decisions. What's the biggest change you've seen in the wine industry? |
Rosé
By Louis S. Luzzo, Sr.
Growing up, my exposure to Rosé wine was the nondescript bottle my mom and dad kept in the closet, right next to bottle of Burgundy and the bottle of Chablis. As far as I knew, this was wine; bold red, dry white and fruffy pink. Now having matured into an adult (there are some who will question that assessment when describing me) who loves wine and now writes about it here for GGM, I have become much more well versed in wine, its varieties, its regions and its industry. My education began with reds; Bordeauxs, Merlots, Pinots, Shiraz, Syrahs, Cabs and so on. Next came the whites from the German Reislings, to the Italian Gavi's and Pinot grigios to the ever popular chardonnays, etc. It seems I had forgotten about Rosé completely, specifically when the too sweet Zins and Grenaches became all the rage. I had relegated pink wine to lesser status in my now snobbishly educated wine palate. "Tut tut, Rosé you say? Ha ha ha, real wine is not pink, I'll have you know." Not very enlightened.
In reality, traditional Rosé is wonderful and I was chagrined at my uneducated mind set. So, I bought a few bottles of good Rosé, and after a few hours, had changed my tune. Careful though. Properly chilled, this is a quite refreshingly delicate drink and its alchohol content will catch up to you, especially on a tropically hot, south Florida day, sitting out on the lanai by the pool. I know, I know, I hear you all saying, "Awww, poor Lou, such a tough job." I assure you, the benefits of what we do here are not lost on me. The payoff is the wonderful feedback from you, our readers, telling us how much you enjoy taking this journey with us. Well....that and the wine/lanai thing... let's not kid ourselves...
In the wine world, things are changing and true Rosés are again becoming popular, especially with a younger generation now exploring wine in all its forms and glory. With recession economies looming, smaller wine producers were looking for a way to maximize immediate cash flow to offset the anticipated but lengthy wait for return on investment from wines aging in the barrel and bottle. Rosés seemed like the right answer to their problem. Since Rosé is best when enjoyed young and takes relatively no time at all to go from grape to bottle, it was a stop gap measure to ensure a winery's bottom line stayed in the black. While hoping for a good response from the market, what took the industry by pleasant surprise was a consumer that embraced the light, crisp and refreshing medium wine, especially in summer and in the hotter climates.
Now let me qualify, I am mostly speaking of the American market. In Europe, the scene is very different. When summertime descends upon Europe, Rosé wine is very much the wine of choice and unlike the changing American concept of pink wines (sweet and cloying), true Rosé has never fallen out of favor and has always been enjoyed. Rosé wine originally came from Bordeaux which has been traditionally known for its superb wine making skills, and it is crisp and dry.
Before the 60s, wine in America was mostly red and white. It was sweet and designed for mass sale to large consumer markets. Rosé was pretty much a neglected afterthought. Bone dry wines were not popular in America in the 50s and the 60s and the largest American producers were concentrating on inexpensive blends based mostly on high-yielding varieties. Then the mega-wineries discovered Grenache. By accident, it was planted in the wrong place (the hot California Central Valley) and the skins bleached to a medium pink color. Thus was the birth of commercial 'California Rosé.'
It's pink color gave way to a new term. It could not be called white and likewise it was not truly red. This is where the term ‘blush wine’ evolved, and to this day, this name is incorrectly associated with Rosé wine as well.
California wineries began producing something they called White Zinfandel. Although it became an enormously popular drink for a few years, it did much to damage the reputation of true Rosés in the minds of America's wine drinkers. "White Zin's," as they're called, are very sweet, in comparison to traditional Rosés and are much less versatile.
These early 'Rosé' wines were single dimensional and much too sweet. Inspite of that, they were a huge success in America. Americans like sweet. Look at soda, candy, our version of donuts and pastry. The more toothachingly sweet anything is, the better Americans seem to like it. Winemakers, needing to make a profit to stay in business, fed the market they were given. That is, until until trendy Americans discovered dry table wines. Suddenly, the interest shifted to wines with classy French names and mass marketed sweet wines declined in esteem, if not in popularity. As with any fad in America, where consumers suddenly become overnight connoisseurs, if you were drinking White Zin and Grenache and you weren't drinking a wine whose name you could barely pronounce, you were no longer considered hip. In those days there were no serious Rosé wines in the American market. True connoisseurs knew about the classic Rosés of Tavel and Lirac, but these wines were rarely found in your local liquor store.
Today, American wine consumers seem to be rediscovering the charm of old world styled Rosés and domestic winemakers are putting their own spin on them. Rosé wines are the fastest growing segment of the American wine market and with good reason. California, Oregon and Washington State are producing some incredible Rosés. While some consumers still like their Grenache and Zin, as paletes and winedrinkers become more mature and educated, the American market is starting to catch up with Europe in its appreciation of this delicate wine.
A real Rosé is a dry, crisp, refreshing mouthful of flavor that has a hint of fruitiness. It is a sophisticated and elegant drink that is great at wine pairings and most dinners. Often referred to as a summer wine, the best of these are available from the USA, Italy, Australia, Canada, Spain, France and Portugal.
The Grapes
Made in almost every wine region globally, Rosé wines are produced from a wide variety of grapes, from Mourvedre, Syrah and Grenache, to more unusual grape varieties. Several appellations are noted for their superb rosé wines, including France's Provence and Spain's Navarra regions, where it accounts for more than half of the wines produced. Other places associated with rosé production are Tavel and the Loire Valley. California, Oregon and Washington State are now starting to make their mark, producing some of the best the market has ever seen.
Rosé wines, as noted, are typically dry. They should be served chilled and are a refreshing summer beverage. All grape juice is white, no matter what color grapes are used. Winemakers make red wines by leaving the grape skins in with the juice to absorb coloring from them. In the case of Rosé wines, the winemaker allows the skins to soak with the juice only long enough for the wine to take on a pinkish tint; then, the skins are removed and the result is a rosé wine.
In the past, it was fairly common to make Rosé wines by simply taking a white wine and adding a bit of red wine to it. Some winemakers thought this could produce interesting wines that possessed some of the hearty character of a red wine while retaining the crispness of many whites. This practice has fallen out of vogue, even in Champagne where it was once quite respected.
Skin contact
Red-skinned grapes are crushed to what is called must, and the skins are allowed to remain in contact with the juice for a short period, typically two or three days. The grapes are then pressed, and the skins are discarded rather than left in contact throughout fermentation (as with red wine making). The skins contain much of the strongly flavored tannin and other compounds, which leaves the taste more similar to a white wine. The longer that the skins are left in contact with the juice, the more intense the color of the final wine.
Saignée
Rosé wine can be produced as a by-product of red wine fermentation using a technique known as Saignée, or bleeding the vats. When a winemaker desires to impart more tannin and color to a red wine, some of the pink juice from the must can be removed at an early stage. The red wine remaining in the vats is intensified as a result of the bleeding, because the volume of juice in the must is reduced, and the must involved in the maceration is concentrated. The pink juice that is removed can be fermented separately to produce Rosé.
Blending
Blending, the simple mixing of red wine to a white to impart color, is uncommon. This method is discouraged in most wine growing regions except for Champagne, but even there, several high-end producers do not use this method, but rather the saignée method.
Types
Historically Rosé was quite a delicate, dry wine. In fact the original Claret was a pale ('clairet') wine from Bordeaux that would probably now be described as a Rosé. After the Second World War, there was a fashion for medium-sweet rosés for mass-market consumption, the classic examples being Mateus Rosé and the American "blush" wines of the 1970's that we mentioned above. The pendulum now seems to be swinging back towards a drier, 'bigger' style. These wines are made from Rhone grapes like Syrah, Grenache and Carignan in hotter regions such as Provence, the Languedoc and Australia. In France, Rosé has now exceeded white wines in sales. In the United States, a record 2005 California crop resulted in an increased production and proliferation of varietals used for Rosés, as winemakers chose to make Rosé rather than leave their reds unsold.
Pairing a Rosé
Rosé wines offer interesting opportunities in matching with food because they offer an incredible versatility. They shine in cases where a white wine is not enough and a red wine is simply too much. In addition, thanks to the low content in tannins combined with their appreciable crispness, they can be served to the same temperatures as white wines. It is often said Rosé has the same aromas of red with the advantage of being served as would a white white wine, therefore they are characterized by excellently agreeable and pleasing aromas. The versatility of Rosé wine in the matching with food is wide and they are a perfect foil to appetizers, pasta, rice, fish, meat, as well as cheese.
One of the main characteristics of Rosé is their freshness in aromas, usually the same which are typically found in young red wines, however, just like any other type of wine, before proceeding with matching, it is best to know the specific characteristics of every wine. Compared to white wines, rosés are usually less acid and have a higher roundness, factors which also depend on the technique used in their production. When compared to red wines, they have a lesser structure and a lower astringency. In general terms, Rosé wines do not have a high alcohol by volume percentage, a factor that, of course, also depends on the specific conditions of the wine and its balance.
Thanks to the smoothness of Rosé, it is great with pasta, fish, in particular fish soups, and roasted fish that is richly seasoned and spiced. Rosé is also suited for mushrooms and soft cheeses.
Rosé can even stand up to some meats, particulary white meats such as chicken or pork. In summer, I find them great as an apertif, though you may want to let them warm a bit above the temperature that you would serve a chardonnay. This slight elevation in temperature brings out the delicate sweetness of the wine all the more. Rose's are even good with cold cuts, whether lean or fatty, as well as with preparations based on vegetables. Do a tasting, find the one you like, and add it to your cellar or cooler. You'll be glad you did.
Our Featured Rosé
Hard Row to Hoe Winery, on the north shore of Lake Chelan in picturesque Manson, Washington, is the product of Judy & Don Phelps love for wine. Judy completed the Winemaking Certificate program at the University of California at Davis in July 2006.
With an eye towards making wine in the Lake Chelan valley, Judy and Don began searching for the right property and bought a 25 acre orchard on Ivan Morse Road in 2004. After updating the existing orchard buildings and purchasing state-of-the-art winery equipment, they were ready for their first commerical 'crush' on site in the fall of 2005.
The Lake Chelan climate, with its cool nights, hot days and lake-moderated winter temperature is an ideal area for growing wine grapes.The vineyard, managed by Don, has been planted and maintained organically using sustainable growing practices. 2005 was the first year of planting the first two acres of grapes, Cabernet Franc, on the rocky, south-slope of the property. In 2006 another 2 acres of grapes, Gewurztraminer and Riesling, were planted. In the 2007 growing season Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec and Chenin Blanc were planted.
Pinot Noir Rosé 2008
Wine Makers Remarks The ‘08 Pinot Noir grapes were picked late in October in order to develop maximum flavors. Lake Chelan allows for long hang time without over-ripening due to its cooler climate. The grapes were hand-picked and crushed the same day. Allowed to cold soak for 24 hours then the juice was bled off the skins (saignée method), then cold fermented in stainless steel tanks to preserve the fruitiness of this wine. The wine was sterile filtered at bottling. Tasting Notes A crisp and dry rosé accented with strawberry, and cherry flavors. These characteristics help make the wine a natural choice for pairing with food, especially salmon or crab. It will make a refreshing change at your next backyard barbecue.