Chef Johnny Iuzzini, Jean-Georges, NYC, NY
We are absolutely thrilled this month to bring you one of the top pastry chefs in the country. Johnny graciously agreed to provide us with a few of the recipes from his new book for your enjoyment and we'll be featuring them this month and next. The recipes can be found in Johnny's new cookbook Dessert Fourplay and you can find out more about Johnny at his website: www.johnnyiuzzini.com
Chocolate-Chipotle Soup ~ Milk Chocolate–Coconut Foam
Serves 4 to 6 on its own or 8 as part of a fourplay
Working in a restaurant affords me the opportunity to learn the food cultures of many of my colleagues, who often bring home cooking to share for lunch. When that home cooking is Mexican, the dishes are sometimes flavored with chipotles or another chile, and I’ve come to crave that little kiss of heat, even in dessert. The gentle kick in the chocolate soup is tamed by the soothing chocolate-coconut foam.
For the Milk Chocolate–Coconut Foam
Ingredients
5 ounces (150 g) whole milk chocolate (preferably Valrhona Jivara 40% cacoa), chopped
1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk
Method
Put the chocolate in a glass bowl and melt in the microwave, using 30-second bursts and stirring after each burst, or melt in a double boiler.
Bring the coconut milk to a simmer in a saucepan. Add the chocolate and emulsify with an immersion blender. Refrigerate until cool, then emulsify again with an immersion blender. Pour into a whipped cream maker and charge with a cream whipper charger (N2O). Shake vigorously. Refrigerate until needed or for up to 2 days.
For the Soup
Ingredients
(Makes about 3 1 2 cups)
Scant 1 4 ounce (6 g) chipotle chiles
About 3 1 4 cups (780 g) milk
5 ounces (150 g) milk chocolate (preferably Valrhona Jivara 40% cacao), chopped
Method
Heat a small skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-high heat. When the skillet is hot, add the chiles, and toast them for about 90 seconds, turning them once. Let the chiles cool, then remove the seeds and chop.
Put the chiles in a small saucepan with 1 1 2 cups of the milk. Bring to a simmer, then turn off the heat and infuse for 20 minutes. Mix with an immersion blender to pulverize the chiles. Strain through a fine strainer into a measuring cup and add enough milk to make 3 cups. Pour the milk into a clean saucepan and bring to a boil.
Put the chocolate in a heatproof bowl. Pour about one-third of the milk into the center and stir from the inside of the bowl out. Continue adding milk gradually as the chocolate melts. Mix with an immersion blender.
To Serve
Chocolate brioche croutons
Shredded unsweetened coconut, toasted
Fill a small glass or a cup about two-thirds full with the soup and top with the foam. Garnish with some croutons and toasted coconut. Repeat for each serving.
For the photograph, I held the glass on its side while I added the foam.
Reprinted from the book Dessert Fourplay by Johnny Iuzzini and Roy Finamore. Copyright © 2008 by Johnny Iuzzini and Roy Finamore. Photographs Copyright © 2008 by Gregor Halenda. Published by Clarkson Potter/Publishers, a division of Random House, Inc.
Chef Johnny Iuzzini's interest in the pastry arts began at age seventeen when he started working at The River Café in Brooklyn, New York. Although his primary responsibility at the restaurant was in garde-manger, Johnny frequently visited the pastry kitchen to marvel as Pastry Chef Eric Gouteyron piped chocolate butterflies. As Johnny's fascination with pastry grew, he began assisting Chef Eric after completing his regular shifts in the kitchen. He learned the techniques of tempering chocolate from Eric, who went on to become the Executive Pastry Chef of the Plaza Hotel in Manhattan. Johnny eventually moved to pastry full-time, cementing his desire to pursue a career as a pastry chef.
After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, Johnny joined the pastry department of the original Daniel on Manhattan's Upper East Side. Over the next three and a half years, he mastered all of the dessert stations and became Pastry Chef François Payard's right-hand man. When Chef Francois launched his eponymous pastry shop in the Summer of 1997, Johnny joined the opening team and was named Sous Chef, a position he held for six months.
As a student of his craft, Johnny traveled to Europe in 1998 where he apprenticed in some of France's finest pâtisseries, including the famed Ladurée in Paris. He also completed an intensive two-week chocolate course at L'Ecole DGF du Chocolat et Patisserie.
In the Fall of 1998, Johnny returned to the US for the debut of Café Boulud and then moved to the 65th Street location of the new Daniel for its opening. Johnny was named Executive Sous Chef for the new restaurant and held that position for the next two years under Executive Pastry Chef Thomas Haas. During that time, Comité Colbert named Johnny one of its “Emerging Young Artists of 2000”.
In January of 2001, Chef Daniel Boulud promoted Johnny to Executive Pastry Chef. The combination of talent and enthusiasm, and a long-standing working relationship with Daniel made Johnny the perfect choice for this position. Shortly after his rise to top job, Where Magazine awarded Johnny's desserts “Best in NY 2001”.
In May of 2002, Chef/ Owner Jean Georges Vongerichten named Johnny the Executive Pastry Chef at his famed four star name-sake, Restaurant Jean Georges, as well as its café, Nougatine. With this move, Johnny achieved much success. In November 2002, Johnny was awarded the title of “Best New Pastry Chef” by New York Magazine's Gael Green in its First Annual Chef Awards. In April 2003, Johnny was nominated for “Outstanding Pastry Chef of the Year” by the prestigious James Beard Foundation. In June of that year, Johnny was named one of the “10 Best Pastry Chefs in America” by Pastry Art and Design Magazine. He received the same honor in 2004, as well.
In June of 2005, Johnny joined Jean Georges in the opening of his newest restaurant, Perry Street. Johnny assumed the role of Executive Pastry Chef for this restaurant in addition to his responsibilities at Restaurant Jean Georges and Nougatine. Perry Street earned three stars from the New York Times. In November 2005, Restaurant Jean Georges earned its most prestigious award to date, three Michelin stars. It was one of only four restaurants in New York City to receive this honor.
In May 2006, The James Beard Foundation awarded Johnny “Outstanding Pastry Chef of the Year”. In March 2007, Forbes.com identified Johnny as one of the 10 most influential chefs working in America today. Of the 12.8 million restaurant and food service outlet employees, these 10 were arguably doing the most to tease, surprise and gratify our national appetite.
Johnny has appeared in numerous TV segments for The Food Network, Martha Stewart, Top Chef, Today in NY, Paula's Party and The Tony Danza Show. His talent and charisma make his personal appearances and pastry demonstrations a must-see by food fans across the country.