Chef Jeff Trefry, Treviso, The Ringling Museum, Sarasota, Florida
At his new gig, Treviso in Sarasota's Ringling Museum, Jeff is balancing the creation of new, signature, seasonal dishes that complement the museum’s special art exhibitions, with that of Treviso’s traditional favorites. Additionally, Trefry will oversee the catering division, designing custom-ordered menus and dishes for special events, social gatherings and weddings. His duties also extend to the Banyan Café, the museum’s casual “grab-and-go” restaurant offering classic all-American circus favorites of chicken strips with warm honey mustard dipping sauce and smoked southwestern chicken egg rolls served alongside healthy fare of hummus and pita and fresh fruit. “We see Treviso as an extension of the Ringling Museum’s elegant and time tested brand and we sought out a chef that could parley this into the culinary realm,” said George Armstrong, Manager of Treviso Restaurant. “Jeffrey has consistently shown that he has a natural flare for creating culinary masterpieces that are appealing to all of the senses.” Trefry comes to Treviso with a long-standing tradition of excellence and a commitment to Sarasota’s culinary scene.
Jeff Trefry is a throwback to classic traditions and artful culinare, all with an eye on the future, a foot in the present and armed with the wisdom of the past. Trefry, a CIA graduate, left his General Manager/Executive Chef position with Cork Restaurant, which was voted one of Forida's Best New Restaurants in 2008 by Florida Trend Magazine. Prior to that Trefry helmed the opening of the Kansas City Ritz-Carlton after being promoted from the Chef Tournant position at the Ritz's Flagship location in Naples, Florida, where he was part of the team that achieved a AAA 5 Diamond Award in 1988. 
“Being a chef is an art form in its own right. Being surrounded by such impressive art and culture at the Museum is inspiring,” said Trefry. “There are a million possibilities for creative fusions of flavors, aromas and ingredients. I look forward to designing a menu and specialties that, like the Estate, has something to offer everyone.” On the nught we dined with Chef Trefry, he recreated for us an 8 course, Gilded Age Menu, first served at the famed Lotos Club in NYC, March 4th, 1893. You can read our profile of the meal in this month's Restaurant Profile.
Where did you grow up?Born in Detroit, Michigan, but really was only there for about 5 years. We moved to the western part of the state, on Lake Michigan, about an hour and a half from Chicago.
Most kids want to be a policeman or a firefighter when they grow up. What did you aspire to be?
I really didn't have one. I was like all boys, I wanted to be a rock star or play baseball or football. I never thought about a career until I already had one. I've been doing this for 35 years.
Your first job?
At a snack bar at a local golf course, and I caddied also.
Did your family influence your perception about food?
Not really, my grandmother was a great cook. My mom and dad both worked so it was always quick meals. I also wasn't the best of eaters at the time. There were one or two dishes of my mom's that stood out that I enjoyed.
What were those?
A Chop Suey, it certainly wasn't in a wok or anything like that. She used to make 'City Chicken,' which was different. She'd take cubes of veal and soak them in buttermilk, then dredge in seasoned flour. She'd then cook them till they were brown in a skillet. She called it city chicken even though it was veal, because "city" people ate veal, we couldn't afford those things. (Laughter)
In the summertimes my dad would barbecue a lot.
What is your happiest childhood food memory?
When my aunt and uncle used to come to town. They weren't rich, but they were affluent, and would come to town with big steaks and sometimes lobster tails. There was always a big meal when they first arrived. Also, Christmas and Thanksgiving. We did the typical stuff, the turkey and standing rib roast, and that was part of the experience. The gifts were exciting, but we looked forward to the meal.
You cook at home?
Today in my home, my kids are spoiled. We ask what they want for dinner tonight and one of them says Steak Diane and the other one says they want a Rack of Lamb. (He laughs). Sometimes it's like I was a short order cook and I cook 6 different things.
Only a chef would make six different meals for dinner.
We try to keep them happy.
What's the most important thing for you in running your kitchen?
Organization is the main thing. I like to stay ahead and keep things as clean as we can. Being unorganized and constantly having to play catchup aggravates me. I like to be a well oiled machine.
Is there any cuisine that you are not interested in preparing?
Although I like to have it occasionally, I am not really into Japanese, Pacific Rim. We're in such a small town that you can't really get the real thing. You get tired of everybody's version of tuna encrusted with sesame seeds with wasabi, etc.
I was on loan from the Ritz (sous chef there) in Naples, to the Ritz in Washington in December and the executive chef took me to a sushi bar that was the real deal. I enjoyed that and don't try to replicate that because we can't get the ingredients and I'm not strong enough to pull that stuff off. It's not my thing. It goes against another principle of mine, I ususally don't cross cultural lines, that kind of cuisine, say Far East, Pacific Rim, and try and bring it into what I do because I don't do it justice.
However, you do use things like sesame oil, wasabi, etc?
Yes, I'll use some of those ingredients, but I don't try to do a lot of those style dishes.
What is the most embarrassing moment you experienced in a professional kitchen?
I've probably had many, but the one that sticks out the most, the biggest disaster I've ever had was Thanksgiving 1993. It was at the then Crystal Sands Resort at Hilton Head Island Resort, I was the executive chef, having just gotten back from working in Bermuda.
We had two buffets planned, one in the main ballroom and one in the dining room. We had about 1000 reservations and we're prepped for that and everything was ready. Something happened, and I still don't know to this day what it was, but we did 1400 covers that day. We had to whip up 400 meals out of thin air. My wife will tell you I was white as a ghost when I finally walked in the door. The kitchen looked like somebody set off a turkey bomb because there were carcasses everywhere. I was figuring 1000 people, we could slice to order, we could do that. We were looking for anything that even resembled turkey in the kitchen. Nobody in the hotel ate, we had to keep all their food! It was a disaster. Like I said, I still don't know where those extra 400 reservations came from.
No one complained?
A lot of times in the kitchen, you really think because you are struggling, that they're seeing it in the dining room. But it just doesn't show and I know that because I've stood on the other end of it.
Before I came here I was a managing partner in a restaurant on St Armands' Circle where I was the front man, I had two chefs. I could see days where they were having a tough time but everyone in the dining room was having a great time. I made sure I shared that information with them back in the kitchen.
You in essence are giving that well oiled machine a little lubrication.
Yes, every day.
When you look at your professional life, who has been key in influencing your attitude about food?
Probably the older chefs that I had the opportunity to work with and this is where my discipline comes from also. I've worked with some great guys at the Ritz and some of my instructors in school. It was usually the toughest ones at school that I respected the most. I found that the discipline thing was something that you needed. You could have the happy fun chef, that everybody liked, but it seemed like "there is something with this discipline thing that I'm going to need further on down the road."
There are those who were tough, Chef Pierre Dousson, fomerly at the Ritz, was one of them. I worked with him 2-3 years and have a tremendous amount of respect for him.
It's very different these days, they come out and want to be the sous chef right away.
When the kids come out of school they want to write book. They've not paid their dues and for the most part they can't cook. I've got a couple cooks from here, no offense, I'm sure they must have learned it somewhere, they're from Johnson & Wales, and I asked them to make hollandaise. I have to teach them, they can't make hollandaise.
You're the second chef in a month that has said that to us. The other graduates weren't from Johnson & Wales, they were from...
...CIA, and that's my alma mater.
It's interesting, I wonder if they will re-evaluate what they are teaching.
They must be teaching them other sauces. You can do anything as long as you understand the fundamentals.
But if they're coming out and can't do them...it's one thing to get the book knowledge, it's another to be able to apply it. That seems to be lacking, which brings it back to education or not enough on the job experience. Just having a piece of paper (degree) doesn't mean you are ready for the real world, whether culinary or otherwise.
I absolutely agree with you.
It makes your job harder having to re-teach some things.
Takes valuable time from other things.
Do you have a favorite herb/spice that you like to work with?
My favorite herb is thyme. I use thyme in everything.
What is it about thyme that makes it your favorite?
It's like an all purpose seasoning for me. Most of meaty things I make are going have a thyme and bay leaf profile. Anything hearty as well. On the other side, for fish dishes, I like coriander. Seed or fresh chopped leaves. Clean kind of a flavor.
What do you find that has changed about yourself over the years?
I'm a much better cook than I was years ago, but what I've found is that my palate just seems to be getting better. I don't know if it gets more discerning or sharper or what happens, but I just notice that throughout the years, I taste so much better than I used to.
Do you think it may be the ingredients that you have been exposed to? Today versus 15 years ago.
It could be, but I think it's the education process. Fifteen years ago I'd have made something and been happy with it. Today, I'd throw it out. (Laughter) When you make something that you're making for the first time, you don't know how it's supposed to taste. You need to make 50 veal stocks before you know you've got a good one and it's nice and rich enough. You have to go through a series of mistakes before you get the right one. Using the right techniques and tools too.
Speaking of tools, besides your knives, do you have a favorite?
I like a spider. It's like the biggest spoon in the kitchen. You can do anything with it.
That's a tool, smaller of course, that is typically included in a wok set, to make tempura with. I always view cookbooks as valuable tools as well. Do you have one that you rely on?
The internet has changed everything for resources and you can type in Epicurious, etc. and get what you need. Say I haven't made something in years, I'll Google it, get the basic and then I'll make it. Of course you have to look for a chef with some qualifications, like Mario Batali. As far as cookbooks go, my old Larousse is put away. Art Culinaire is another great resource, I have every issue from its inception and I still get them.
Is there a food you can't bring yourself to eat?
Eggplant. I used to be able to but for some reason I have a reaction to it now. I'm not big on offal either.
What do you feel has been your greatest accomplishment to date?
At 29 I was the executive chef at the Ritz Carlton. I take pride in what I do, it is a daily event for me.
Dead Chef Walking - what would your last meal be?
Pan seared foie gras on crispy butter fried baguettes. But if I happen to die between October and May it'll be stone crab (Laughter) followed by a Veal Rib Chop and Gianduja Chocolate.
Advice for the novice cook?
Read the recipe through completely first, set up your mise en place, and then you're ready to go. Also, they need to choose their recipe wisely, find a recipe that has been rated. Stay away from famous celebrity cookbooks (actors) and make sure they are easy to follow. A great one is Jean-Georges, his books are very easy to follow.
Soap Box Moment
Most overused word in the industry is passion. There is more to life than cooking, you need other interests, this is a job. My advice to anyone coming into this business, is to think hard, it is very a demanding career.